So, John and I made a trip up to Seoul for the weekend on May 21st to the 23rd. We figured we couldn't spend over a year in Korea and NOT see the DMZ, so we made a special trip north to see it. Even though the tour was clearly oriented towards tourists, complete with snack shops at key intervals and tour buses galore, you couldn't get past the fact that at one point (and even now) this really was a war zone.
The tour started off driving north on the highway toward Imjingak Park. The drive itself was kind of eye opening. Along the highway they have "tank traps" set up in case the North ever decides to invade. If you look closely enough at the billboards overhanging the street, you'll notice that they're rather wide.
This is because the entire thing is filled with dynamite designed to destroy the highway. Once outside of Seoul, we noticed the barbed wire lining the Han river was getting thicker and thicker and more soldier outposts could be seen dotting the fence line. At the point where the Han (south) and Imjin (north) rivers meet, you can actually see a part of North Korea - the fog and drizzle didn't make it any less spooky. Once we got to Imjingak park, we could check out the exhibits including the Freedom Bridge, Peace Bell, and a dilapidated steam train. What was really eerie is that a small carnival like theme park has been set up right next to the memorial; Perfectly symbolizing the Korean peninsula's unlikely mix of childlike immaturity and the impact of war. 
After we left the memorial we made our way to the "3rd infiltration tunnel" - A tunnel dug by the North Koreans through the DMZ. The tunnel is about 73 meters below ground (about 25 stories) which made for a very good workout... Walking through the tunnel wasn't as creepy as I thought it would be, mainly because there were about 300 hundred or so tourists in front and behind me at all times. But, the fact that only 4 out of a possible 20 tunnels have been found did send a chill up my spine. The North's excuse for the tunnels' presence was that they were merely mining for coal. Geological surveys indicate that there are no coal deposits for miles around the tunnel. Knowing this, the North Koreans smeared coal dust all over the walls to make their argument more convincing... seriously people, come on...
"freedom bridge" this is where war captives from the north were able to cross back into the south.
After the tunnel we set out for the Dora Observatory. This is settled right up against the outer DMZ fence, making it possible to see into North Korea. We were able to see Gaesong city (you've probably seen this city's name in the news recently, NK just expelled all SK workers from the area) and the two small villages that actually live in the DMZ. There are about 300 people who live in the South's village, but no one lives in the North's. They just didn't think it fair that the South got a village in the DMZ and they didn't. Both villages have flag poles, and at one point there was a race to see who could build the taller flagpole. At one point South Korea's was taller, so North retaliated and built a taller one, this went on for a while until the North finally built the tallest flagpole (in the world actually) at 160 meters. There were other incidents of similar childish battles, like who could play the loudest propaganda message across the border.
Our next stop was the Dorasan train station, which will connect the South to the North once they reunify. Reunification is a tricky subject, but a lot of the south would like to see it happen. That was the end of our tour. I have mixed emotions about the whole thing - part of it was pretty creepy, other parts seemed really immature. I guess that is what makes the problem so intriguing...
